JAYNE'S BLOG: TURKEY JOURNEY ~ GLIMPSE OF ISTANBUL

BRIEF INTRODUCTION

Istanbul is one of the most unique cities in the world, where one can observe the diverse daily life in a setting of ancient history and natural beauty. The people of Istanbul make up a cultural mosaic of different national ethnic, cultural and religious origins. Here you can observe the riches of both Turkey and the world in Istanbul, due to this diversity. International cultural, artistic and sporting events, distinguish hotels and restaurants, nightclubs, conference centers, concerts, theaters and cinemas can suit every visitor's taste from any walk of life.

Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey. Though it's not the capital city, it is the leading industrial, commercial and cultural center of the country The population of the city is estimated to be around 13 million.

HISTORY OF ISTANBUL

Apart from archaeological facts, according to Strabo, Istanbul is thought to have been founded in the 7C BC by colonists from Megara, led by Byzas. Popular legend has it that the Megarians, before coming here went to the oracle in Delphi and asked his advice where to make their settlement. The answer was "opposite the city of the blind". When they came to to the peninsula of the old city, and after seeing an earlier settlement on the Asian side, they concluded that these people must be blind not to have seen such a beautiful place opposite them. Remembering the words of the Delphi oracle. they founded their city, Byzantium, derived from their leader's name "Byzas".

During the 2004 excavations for a 78km (48 miles) rail and subway network that will ultimately link Europe and Asia via a tunnel under the Bosphorus, a port was uncovered in Yenikapi. Among the finds of the excavation is an 8000 year old late Neolithic hut containing stone tools and and ceramics the earliest settlement ever located on the city historic peninsula. (This will require that history books re-written).

Over the next thousand years, Byzantium became a trade and commerce center. But despite great prosperity, Byzantium never distinguished itself culturally, as did so many contemporary cities in Anatolia. In 330 AD, Constantine 1 allowed christianity to be practiced publicly, dedicated Constantinople as the capital of the Roman Empire, and rebuilt the city splendidly. Constantinople itself was not only the new capital of the empire but also the symbol of christian triumph.

The name Byzantine, which is derived from the name of the city Byzantium, was given by 19C historians. The Byzantines always called themselves as Romans. In 395 AD Theoddosius 1 divided the Roman Empire into two. Eastern and Western. Culturally, the Western part was Latin and the Eastern part was Hellenic. Soon afterward, in 476 AD, the Western Roman Empire collapsed but the Eastern Empire survived. The Eastern Roman were christians and changed their language from Latin to Greek. In the early Byzantine period, Justinian1 reconquered the West.

Istanbul is famous as one of the most frequently besieged cities in the world. Before being conquered by the Turks, its assailants included the Persian Darius (513 BC), the Athenian Alcibiades (408 BC), the Macedonian Philip 11 (339 BC), the Arabs (673-78, 717-18 AD), the Bulgarians (813, 913 AD) and the armies of the fourth crusades, which twice succeeded in taking the city (1203, 1204 AD). After being taken by the Turks in 1453. Constantinople became the capital of the Ottomon Empire until 1923, when the newly founded Turkish Republic declared Ankara (then Angora) the new capital. From 1918 until 1923, Great Britain, France and Italy occupied the city.

Under the Ottomons, the city went through several name changes, among them Konstantiniyye, Polis, Stimpol, Estanbul and Estambol. The name was officialy changed to Istanbul in 1930.

*huh.. how are you so far? bored? this is my style. The only way for me to know the story and history of each cities i visited. I do research and read whatever i can.

ANOTHER FACTS:

The city is situated on both sides of the Bosphorus, the strait that separates Europe from Asia
Istanbul is among the 20 largest cities in the world, second only to Moscow in Europe
There are 935 million Moslems in 172 countries of the world today. This is nearly 18% of the world's population. 6% of Moslems live in Turkey.
Although 99% of Turkish population are Moslems, Turkey is a secular state. No one is viewed as being at fault because of his beliefs
The population of the city of Istanbul is greater than 9 of the EU countries. The country of Turkey has the second largest population in Europe.

Cay

In front of Spice Bazaar

More than Ottoman minarets and beguiling bazaars, Turkey's cultural capital is also fashionable and progressive. Spanning both Asia and Europe and divided by the Bosphorus, Istanbul is a beguiling mix of ancient and modern, of conservative and secular. The hulking Byzantine Hagia Sophia and opulent Topkapi Palace dominate the old city Sultanahmet, but over in Karaköy, in a converted warehouse, the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art embraces the future.

Things to Do
Along Galata Bridge, fishermen looking for dinner dip their rods into the waters of the Golden Horn. Walk past them to buzzing, bazaar-filled Eminönü where locals stock up on fresh pistachios and crumbly sheep's cheese from the aromatic Spice Market. The sunset call to prayer from pencil-slim minarets brings welcome serenity, especially from mosques clustering the busy Old City, crammed with elegant Ottoman and Byzantine landmarks. Families crowd onto passenger boats at weekends to cruise the Bosphorus, Istanbul's real gem, past pastel-colored wooden summer houses.

Shopping
At 500 years old, the sprawling Grand Bazaar in Beyazit remains vibrant -- carpet and gold dealers are as persuasive as in Mehmet the Conqueror's day. It's also the best place to haggle for an inlaid backgammon set. In Istanbul's modern Beyoglu, it's back to the 21st century along the packed, pedestrianized Istiklal Caddesi, lined with sleek bookshops and local fashion chains. Kitten-heeled shoppers find the latest designs in chic boutiques like Turkish designer Bahar Korcan in Nisantasi.

Nightlife and Entertainment
In cultured Istanbul, you're never far away from an arts, film or music festival. It may be opera in the cavernous Atatürk Cultural Centre in Taksim Square or summertime jazz in Cemil Topuzlu open-air theater in leafy Harbiye. Beyoglu is where Istanbul's revelers head to sip cocktails at fashionable rooftop bars or join friends at outdoor cafés with a tulip-shaped glass of tea. At funky Babylon club, catch the latest Balkan fusion band, or join football-mad fans on the terraces to cheer on Besiktas.

Restaurants and Dining
Busy Beyoglu has the best choices of mayhanes (traditional eating houses) and contemporary cuisine. On packed Nevizade street, waiters allure you into bustling restaurants, where platters of meze (garlicky dips and tangy salads) start off a typical Turkish dinner of grilled fish or skewered lamb, as fasil (gypsy) musicians play at your table. Locals have a real taste for international dishes, from sushi at Vogue in Besiktas to a bohemian brunch of eggs benedict at the waterfront House Café in village-like Ortaköy.

Favorite Experiences

Taking a hamam: The Turkish bath, rising out of the Islamic requirement of cleanliness, is not just practical; it's relaxing as well. A good hamam experience includes the proper traditional ambience and a heavy-handed scrubbing. For historical value, you can't beat the Çemberlitas Hamami. But if you want the royal treatment, reserve a time posthaste at Les Ottomans Caudelie Vinotherapie Spa, the Çiragan Palace Sanitas Spa, the Sofa Hotel Taylife Spa, or one of the other deluxe hotel hamams.

Attending a performance of the Ottoman Mehter Band: The underappreciated Military Museum in Harbiye puts on two daily half-hour performances of what was once the avant-garde of the fearless and brutal Ottoman army. It's a powerful performance of sound and visuals, and truly not to be missed.

Wandering the streets behind the Egyptian Spice Market: It's just as much fun outside as it is inside the market, where purveyors of produce set their prepared foods out on the streets for the local lunch crowd. Bring wet wipes.

Discovering the Grand Bazaar: Nobody should pass through Turkey without spending a day at the mother of all shopping malls. The pseudo-exotic atmosphere crackles with the electricity of the hunt -- but are you the hunter or the hunted? The excitement is tangible, even if you're on the trail of a simple pair of elf shoes or an evil-eye talisman. When the salesman turns away from you in disgust, you've learned the bottom price for an item.

Taking a boat ride up the Bosphorus: Nowhere else in the world can you cross to another continent every 15 minutes. Connecting trade routes from the East to the West, it's no surprise that any conqueror who was anybody had his sights set on the Bosphorus. Floating in the wake of Jason and the Argonauts and Constantine the Great, sit back and enjoy the breezes, the stately wooden manses, the monumental Ottoman domes, and the fortresses that helped win battles.

Stumbling over a small herd of sheep in Balat: This is one of the countless neighborhoods in Istanbul in transition, where old, dilapidated structures are getting the recognition they deserve. It's really just a matter of time before Starbucks moves in; but while I can't promise you sheep on your visit, if you go there soon, you will witness the character of the city before it started looking European.

Soaking up the atmosphere at the Pierre Loti cafe: The views of the Golden Horn from this hilltop make the trip to Pierre Loti worth the detour. Take a walk through the picturesque cemetery adjacent to the cafe; then wander down to Eyüp to see parades of princely looking boys on the eve of their circumcision ceremony.

Sharing tea with the locals: Tea is at the center of Turkish culture; no significant negotiation takes place without a cup or three. But more than commerce, tea stops the hands of time in Turkey; it renews the bonds of friends and family. Having tea is inevitable, as is the invitation to share a glass with a total stranger. Accept the invitation: There's more to a glass than just a hot drink.

Buying a carpet, whether you plan to or not: Come on, you know you want to. And whatever it is that you buy, whether you overpay or not, whether your salesman is naughty or nice, I guarantee you will be talking about the experience for years to come.

Rejuvenating your spirit at the ceremony of the Whirling Dervises at Galata Mevlevihanesi: The same repetitive whirling and soothing tones of the sufi mystics designed to create a sense of union between the dervis and God will undoubtedly entrance you as well.

Best Dining Bets

Noshing waterside at Eminönü: For 12 to 14 hours a day, the Tarihi Eminönü Balikçisi grills fresh fish quay-side, wrapped in a roll and presented for a spectacular 3TL by a gracious man in traditional costume. Grab your sandwich and step aside; the condiments are to the right on the railing.

Develi: No visit to Istanbul is complete for me without a visit to Develi. Dine on their spicy lahmacun, içli köfte, raw çig köfte, and you'll be stuffed before the pistachio kebap arrives.

Melting Kanlica yogurt in your mouth: For more than 100 years, creamy rich yogurt has been a specialty of the tiny Bosphorus-front village of Kanlica, on the upper Asian side. It's a heck of a haul for a cup of yogurt, but oh, what glorious spoonfuls they are.

Morning simit from a street vendor: I grew up on sesame bagels, so call me biased, but these doughy little morning delicacies really do hit the spot. Spread some cheese on one (or slather with butter and jam) and weep.

Eating your way through Ortaköy: This neighborhood is particularly vibrant on a summer evening, with the lights twinkling beneath the Bosphorus Bridge. The streets behind the mosque are a food fair of Turkish fast-food stalls selling such things as stuffed mussels (for the fearless) and potatoes to drown in your preferred toppings.

Dining at Asitane: Many restaurants bill themselves as "Ottoman," but few of them can actually boast of having translated the recipes from the kitchens of Topkapi.

Lunch at a lokanta: These unassuming eateries have some of the best home-style food around. Casseroles and stews such as moussaka or orman kebap (lamb stew with potatoes and carrots) are the types of labor-intensive dishes the tourist places can't be bothered to prepare. If you have time, indulge your senses at Çiya.

While some ambitious new and atmospheric restaurants are popping up in the tourist-heavy Old City, Istanbul's real food renaissance is happening elsewhere. One of the more popular dining destinations is in and around the streets of Asmalimescit, in Beyoglu, where boisterous meyhanes, bistros, and Mexican restaurants share the same stretch of real estate. Another popular option is the neighborhood of Kumkapi, on the southern tip of the historic peninsula, a year-round carnival crammed with typical tavernas, which benefits directly from the fish market across the highway. Appropriately, Kumkapi translates to "sand gate." Pick the restaurant with the most people or the freshest looking fish (reliable favorites are Kalamar tel. 0212/517-1849; and Fener tel. 0212/516-4002), and hold on to your valuables, as the dimly lit surrounding streets attract the worst petty thieves.
A good budget alternative is to descend upon one of the numerous (and hidden) lokantas (dives with steam tables), particularly along Piyer Loti Caddesi, between the Hippodrome and Cagaloglu and in the streets around the Grand Bazaar.

Best Regional Cuisine: Considered the best restaurant in Istanbul, the humble Kadiköy outpost that is Çiya Sofrasi, Caferaga Mahallesi Güneslibahçe Sok. 43 (tel. 0216/330-3190), dishes out a palate-pleasing variety of traditional home cooking from Turkey's southern region that leaves your taste buds begging for more.

Best Ottoman Cuisine: While Turkish and Ottoman cuisine seem to have merged into indistinguishable categories, a few noteworthy restaurants have gone the extra mile with dishes that were actually served from the palace kitchens. Çiragan Palace's venerated and renovated Tugra, Çiragan Palace Hotel Kempinski Istanbul, Çiragan Cad., Besiktas (tel. 0212/258-3377), creates delectable interpretations of historical menus while Asitane, Kariye Camii Sok. 18, Edirnekapi (tel. 0212/534-8414), was the first to work off of actual translations of historic recipes. The new and trendy Topaz, Inönü Cad. 50, Gümüssuyu (tel. 0212/249-1001), takes these imperial culinary concepts and reinterprets them for a modern audience.

Best Kebaps: In Turkey, a kebap is much more than a slab of meat on a stick. Kebaps refer to a range of meat dishes, be they grilled, roasted, or in a casserole. The unexpected sleeper award goes to Kösebasi Ocakbasi, which has some of the best kebaps around in a classy yet unpretentious setting in Nisantasi (Bronz Sok. 5; tel. 0212/241-3434). Not even the several outposts of Develi, Balikpazari (Samatya Fish Market), Gümüsyüzük Sok. 7, Samatya (tel. 0212/529-0833), can compete with the quality of this regional Gaziantep cuisine and of the setting of the branch in Samatya. For years a favorite of the local and expat business crowd, Borsa, Lütfi Kirdar Convention Center, Harbiye (tel. 0212/232-4201), continues to merit its crown with the expertly executed fundamentals of the Turkish kitchen.

Best Bistro Menu: As Istanbul's palate becomes more sophisticated, new dining spots appear with modern, healthy, and even intriguing flavors. New on the scene is the restaurant of the Istanbul Culinary Institute, Mesrutiyet Cad. 59 (tel. 0212/251-2214), melding the freshest ingredients into decidedly modern Turkish creations. House Café, Asmalimescit 9/1, Tünel (tel. 0212/245-9515), Atiye Sok., Iskeçe Apt. 10/1, Tesvikiye (tel. 0212/259-2377), and Salhane Sok. 1, Ortaköy (tel. 0212/227-2699), takes the freshest essential basics of the Turkish cupboard and turns them into modern and healthy dishes.

Best Meyhane: While still somewhat raucous, the traditional meyhane is no longer the eminent domain of the Turkish male species. Friends, families, couples, and large (very large) groups descend on Gedikli, Sofyali Sok. 22 (tel. 0212/245-9622), located in the buzzing nightlife bulls-eye that is Sofyali Sokak.

Best Seafood: As a city surrounded by bountiful seas, Istanbul suffers from an embarrassment of riches of seafood. Where do Istanbullus go for their grouper? Poseidon, Çevdetpasa Cad. 58, Bebek (tel. 0212/287-9531), tends toward the card-carrying socialites, while Doga Balik, Akarsu Yokusu Cad. 44-46, Cihangir (tel. 0212/243-3656), capitalizes on masterful mezes and twinkling nighttime panoramas.

Best Hotel Bets

Çiragan Palace (tel. 0212/258-3377; www.kempinski-istanbul.com): More than just Istanbul's original posh hotel, the Çiragan Palace is a destination in its own right. The grandeur of the lobby -- tinted by light coming through the stained glass and imbued with the fragrance of fresh roses -- hardly prepares you for what's to come. Expect regal gardens, a delicious Bosphorus-side pool, big fluffy beds, and flawless service. Make sure you splurge for that sea view, or all bets are off.

Four Seasons Hotel (tel. 0212/381-3000; www.fourseasons.com): Nothing drives home the magnitude of this hotel's history more than watching a former political prisoner once incarcerated here break down and cry in the hallway. Some original tile and marble details were preserved and reused in the renovation, and you might encounter the
rough etchings of an inmate's name in one of the columns. But these days the unqualified opulence and comfort of this grand hotel couldn't be further from its bread-and-water past. The new Four Seasons the Bosphorus (tel. 0212/638-8200) promises the royal treatment -- but without the historic background.
Les Ottomans (tel. 0212/359-1500; www.lesottomans.com): You'll find rooms truly fit for royalty here, if you can get a reservation. Every detail, from the chandeliers, to the salon chairs, to the bedding, is a unique creation that screams "one of a kind." The very personalized nature of the hotel foreshadows the high standard of hospitality.
Sumahan (tel. 0216/422-8000; www.sumahan.com): A traditional hamam is the bonus feature in four of the hotel's rooms, while the rest of them make do with luxurious slate marble bathroom suites. Enough with the bathrooms; the hotel itself is a restored grain alcohol factory.
Best Place to Pretend You're a Sultan: No expense was spared in restoring the rooms in the Palace Section of the Çiragan Palace, Çiragan Cad. 84 (tel. 0212/258-3377; www.kempinski-istanbul.com), from the finest upholstery, to gold bathroom fittings, to the sumptuously detailed Sultan's Hamam (open for private events only). Rebuilt from the ground up is the lavish retreat that is Les Ottomans, Muallim Naci Cad. 68, Kuruçesme (tel. 0212/359-1500; www.lesottomans.com). If Muhzinzade Mehmet Pasa himself were to step into his former residence today, he would feel like he had gotten a promotion.
Best Views from in Bed: Honeymooners can make the most of the ample Bosphorus views at A'jia, Ahmet Rasim Pasa Yalisi, Çubuklu Cad. 27, Kanlica (tel. 0216/413-9300; www.ajiahotel.com), where plush beds face picture windows. The Mezzanine Suite throws in a panoramic view from the bathtub as well. From both the bed and bathtub in the suites of the Ottoman Imperial, Caferiye Sok. 6/1, Sultanahmet (tel. 0212/513-6150; www.ottomanhotelimperial.com), you can practically touch the windows in the dome of the Ayasofya.
Best Nostalgic Hotel: After a 4-year project of restoration, rehab, and upgrades by expert architects, preservationists, and academics, Istanbul's iconic Pera Palace Hotel, Mesrutiyet Cad. 98-100, Tepebasi (tel. 0212/251-4560; www.perapalace.com), has been restored to its throne as the jewel in the crown of this former capital of three empires.
Best Trendy Hotel: How do you get to Carnegie Hall? Practice, practice, practice. How do you get into Istanbul's trendiest hotel? Book a room at the W Istanbul, Süleyman Seba Cad. 27, 34357 Besiktas (tel. 0212/381-2121; www.wistanbul.com.tr), with its nightclub-esque ambience and seductive lighting. An oasis of style and guiltless indulgence is the Misafir Suites, Gazeteci Erol Dernek Sok. 1, Beyoglu (tel. 0212/249-8930; www.misafirsuites.com), with rooms decked out like the luxury downtown studio you wish you had.
Best Bang for Your Buck: Both the Cihangir Hotel, Aslan Yatagi Sok. 17, Cihangir (tel. 0212/251-5317; www.cihangirhotel.com), and the Apricot Hotel, Amiral Tafdil Sok. 18/2, Sultanahmet (tel. 0212/638-1658; www.apricothotel.com), tie for the best value. The former offers affordable Bosphorus views, while the latter provides the warmth and scale of a bed-and-breakfast in a quiet, historic corner of the Old City.
Best Hotel Restoration: The architects and owners of the Sumahan, Kuleli Cad. 51, Çengelköy (tel. 0216/422-8000; www.sumahan.com), whose name recalls the property's original use (a grain alcohol distillery), swathed the former factory in marble and updated it without sacrificing arched windows, the distinctive chimney, its industrial feel, or a sense of indulgence. Similarly, the Four Seasons Sultanahmet, Tevkifhane Sok. 1 (tel. 0212/381-3000; www.fourseasons.com) transformed a forgotten 19th-century political prison into some of the most evocative and coveted rooms in the city.
Best Unique Hotel: With the density of fabulous hotels setting the bar in Istanbul ever higher, it's more difficult than ever to find something, well, different. The stylish Five Boutique Hotel, Cumhuriyet Cad. Prof. Celal Öker Sok. 5, Harbiye (tel. 0212/296-5553; www.fiveboutiquehotel.com), has the appealing trait of being entirely, from the bedclothes to the breakfast table, 100% organic. Two hotels in Sultanahmet earn honorable mention for having a portion of the hotel built into the city's ancient, Byzantine walls. They are the meandering Empress Zoe, Akbiyik Cad., Adliye Sok. 10, Sultanahmet (tel. 0212/518-2504; www.emzoe.com), and Naz Wooden House, Akbiyik Cad., Degirmeni Sok. 7, Sultanahmet (tel. 0212/516-7130; www.nazwoodenhouseinn.com).

The Best Views

Istanbul is a city of rooftops, attracting refugees from the sticky Mediterranean summers up above the eaves for a breath of fresh sea air. Are the views the bonus, or are the breezes? You decide.

For the cost of a cocktail or a meal, you'll be seduced by views of the city, each revealing an angle of Istanbul you may not have otherwise noticed. The rooftop bars and restaurants of Beyoglu take advantage of panoramas that include the Old City, the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn, and everything in between. Check out the bar at Mikla (or spring for a meal), Panorama, the Marmara Hotel's top-flight restaurant, or 360 Istanbul, whose very name begs the question: Need I say more? On the Asian side, from Kanlica, the view is down the Bosphorus to the Fatih Bridge; farther south from Çengelköy the waterfront cafes and restaurants bask in the nighttime glow of the Bosphorus Bridge. In the Old City, practically any hotel or restaurant with a rooftop offers multiple best seats in the house.

Now, the freebies (or almost free). One of the finest panoramas in the Old City is from the north side of the courtyard of the Süleymaniye Mosque and Complex. The prolific architect, in service to Süleyman the Magnificent and considered the Ottoman era's preeminent architect, strategically sited his crown jewel on the city's highest point to take advantage of the commanding vistas. From the rear of the courtyard, the view is a straight shot over the Galata Bridge and up the Bosphorus.

For those naughty enough to go to Istanbul without any plans to visit Topkapi Palace, amazing views of the Marmara Sea can be had along the path leading from the outer, public courtyard down to the parking lot. Dozens of boats each day park themselves on this side of the peninsula awaiting clearance into the traffic-choked Bosphorus Straits.

If you've already paid the admission fee for Topkapi Palace, the numerous corners with views of the Marmara Sea and the Bosphorus are yours to enjoy. The really staggering ones are in the rear (fourth courtyard), which all at once faces the Marmara Sea, the Bosphorus, and Asia. A great photo op would be under the small Iftariye Pavilion, where during Ramadan the sultan would break his fast with the iftar meal. Because the pavilion faces north, the views include the Golden Horn. If you've bought your ticket to the Harem, you'll see that the sultan's favorites also got some pretty good real estate, residing in apartments from which, on a clear day, they could see as far as the Princes' Islands.

You may want to sit down and enjoy the vistas over a cup of tea, coffee, or Turkish wine. From the Malta Köskü in Yildiz Park, the cool breezes waft over the treetops down to the Bosphorus. If you're into the romance of tragedy, the lore surrounding Pierre Loti up along the Golden Horn is the place to absorb the meaning of love lost while contemplating the rebirth of the waterway formerly blighted by industry (and isn't it all so photogenic?).

From the wharf up in Ortaköy, you can see the floodlit Ortaköy Mosque dangling off its pier, and the twinkling lights of Asia on the opposite shore.

In the evenings, the domes and minarets of the Old City light up, acting as a magnet for scores of sea gulls. If you haven't already fallen in love with Istanbul, this is the view that will do it. Grab a seat at one of the east-facing pubs along the Galata Bridge, or just stand immobilized by the majesty over on the wharf of Karaköy.

The Best Souvenirs

Carpets and kilims: Turkey's tribal carpets and kilims represent a cultural tradition that goes back for centuries. No matter how lame your bargaining skills, it's still cheaper than Bloomingdale's -- and boy, do they look good unrolled under (or on) your coffee table.

Pottery and ceramics: These arts thrived under the Ottomans, whose skilled craftsmen perfected the coral red and cobalt blue of the Iznik tile. No one has ever been able to reproduce the intensity of these colors, until now. The only authentic reproductions come out of the Iznik Foundation‘s workshop and showroom in Iznik, but they are distributed widely at finer-quality shops. Ordinary but equally stunning porcelain designs on white clay come from Kuthaya (the painting is done at private workshops) and are sold throughout Turkey.

Textiles: Check the manufacturer's label on your fine linens, terry-cloth supplies, and cotton T-shirts. I bet you didn't realize it, but Turkey exports a huge amount of textiles, supplying the raw materials for well-known retailers such as OP, Calvin Klein, Walt Disney, and Banana Republic. Many Istanbul residents head out of town to Bursa or Pamukkale to stock up on plush towels and terry-cloth robes, but you can also find top-quality clothing and bath towels at Home Goods in Akmerkez and at any branch of Mudo (among others).

Copper: Turks use copper for everything, probably because it looks so good (particularly the white copper). Tea servers with triangular handles pass you by countless times a day; the wide copper platters that double as tables represent typical Turkish style. Those shiny white bowls you see in a hamam are copper, too. For the best prices and widest selection, head to Çadircilar Caddesi, near the Grand Bazaar.

Gold and silver: Shopping thoroughfares glitter with the stuff -- some of it attractive, some of it hideous. The Istanbul Handicrafts Center has an atelier where artisans craft their own work. Museum gift shops are also great sources of unique jewelry.

Foodstuffs: The exoticism of the East is in full bloom at Istanbul's Egyptian Spice Bazaar, where you can find spices with prowess you never knew they had. Specialty stores and sarcüteris (small groceries selling deli-style meats and cheeses) in the Galatasaray Fish Market (Balikpazari) in Beyoglu marinate a variety of delectable little morsels in sealed jars ready-made to take home. Although this isn't Tuscany, you wouldn't know it by the quality of the olive oil; head over to the local supermarket and stock up on a few of the higher-end bottles. Don't forget the wine; several Turkish vintages are walking away with industry awards, such as Doluca's özel Kav Bogazkere-Oküzküzü 2000 and 2001, Kavaklidere's Selection Kirmizi 1997, and özel Kirmizi 2003 and 2002.

Best Free Things to Do

Toasting the lights of the Old City at dusk: It's a magical sight to watch the lights of the Old City come to life. From a rooftop bar in Beyoglu or a nargile cafe on the Galata Bridge (okay, not necessarily free), you can watch the monuments light up one by one. If you're on the ground in Sultanahmet, it's impossible not to enjoy the poetry of the sea gulls in flight circling under the spotlights of the Blue Mosque.

Crossing the Galata Bridge on foot: Fishermen line the railings above, while dinner (or tea, or backgammon) is served below as the majestic and inspiring silhouettes of the Süleymaniye, Rüstem Pasa, and Yeni Camii loom in the distance. If you wait until after sunset, you get to see the sea gulls circling the minarets.

Strolling along the city's defensive walls: Ancient history is juxtaposed against the present-day neighborhoods at Yedikule, Edirnekapi, and Ayvansaray, each reflecting its own interpretation of Turkey's past, present, and future.

The Best Museums and Historical Sights

Blue Mosque: This landmark mosque assumes a stance of authority over Sultanahmet Park. Just under the dome, hundreds of stained-glass windows sparkle like jewels until you are convinced that you're in the presence of a celestial being. The blue of the mosque actually changes to yellow, orange, and red, depending on the time of day.

Ayasofya: When faced with the dome of this masterpiece, it's tempting to mimic the actions of Mehmet the Conqueror almost 600 years ago and drop to your knees in a gesture of utter humility. The sensation is intensified by the low level of filtered light that finds its way in, temporarily blinding you to everything except the source of illumination.

Topkapi Palace: Perspective check -- this was once somebody's house. Actually, it was the home of a whole lot of people -- up to 5,000 at a time, all in the service of one man. The sultan surrounded himself with the most beautiful women in the world. He collected the most precious treasures of the East. He assembled the most sacred relics of the Muslim faith under this roof. Six hundred years of Ottoman history lie behind these grand ornamental gates.

Istanbul Archeology Museum: This is one of those must-see museums that all too many overlook. It's actually the largest museum in the country, chronicling in stone both the lives of Byzantium's emperors and of Istanbul. Recovered artifacts date back to 6000 B.C. and proceed through the centuries. A separate building houses the Museum of the Ancient Orient, exhibiting artifacts obtained during the course of the Ottoman period.

St. Savior in Chora: An empire's devotion to the faith is mirrored in the opulence of the finest preserved collections of Byzantine mosaics just about anywhere.

The Best Websites

www.kultur.gov.tr is the official site of the Turkish Ministry of Culture, and an excellent source for information and links to the country's major arts events.

www.tourismturkey.org is the website of the Ministry of Tourism.

www.hurriyet.com and www.todayszamam.com/tz-web, the sites for two of Turkey's major dailies, allow you to plug into real-time issues in English.

www.mymerhaba.com is for expatriates by expatriates, but we like to eavesdrop on them, too.

http://cat.une.edu.au provides a wealth of coordinated information on all archaeological works being conducted in Turkey. Information is arranged by age and by site.

www.istanbul2010.org is the go-to site for all things cultural happening in Istanbul during the city's reign as cultural capital of Europe.

www.byzantium1200.com is a nonprofit research project whose goal is to create computer models of Constantinople and its monuments during the Byzantine era. Models are constructed based on all available information, including scholarly and historic accounts as well as historical paintings, and depict buildings, structures, and monuments as they would have appeared in 1200 had they been optimally maintained (by 1200, much of the city was, in reality, in an irretrievable state of decay). Byzantium 1200 also puts out a companion guide to the Byzantine sites in Istanbul called Walking Through Byzantium.